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舉世聞名的Barbaresco葡萄酒誕生於1890年、並在這一年開始釀造並逐漸成為一種風格特徵寫下歷史性的一頁,然而位於義大利Piedmont的古老酒莊Roagna家族的釀酒歷史甚至更早可追溯至1880年。

如托斯卡尼(Toscana)的鬼才Gianfranco Soldera一般,Roagna的葡萄園遠超有機或自然動力法(Biodynamic)的定義,更像是一座森林花園。它們從未經歷農藥和肥料(包括有機肥)的洗禮,如此葡萄樹的根系才能深入土層搜尋養分,而不是只在表層土裡橫向發展;青草、薄荷、豆子等田間植物肆意生長、無人修剪(no-till farming),每4-5年酒莊才會進行一次翻土,這些植物能夠幫助構建一個多樣、健全的生態環境,與葡萄樹構成良性的養分競爭,保持土壤活力,並且防止水土流失。

老藤是Roagna葡萄酒品質的基石,所有葡萄園的平均藤齡達到55-60年。當一株葡萄樹因年事過高而死去時,酒莊會在通過“瑪薩拉選種法”(Massale Selection)補種同一葡萄園的優質植株,拒絕因商業克隆而導致的葡萄基因單一化。

1953年,Roagna家族的第三代釀酒人——Giovanni Roagna與妻子一起買下Barbaresco村莊的Pajè葡萄園,這塊葡萄園是Roagna酒莊最具代表性的葡萄園,後來使用該園所產葡萄釀造出的Roagna Crichët Pajè Barbaresco DOCG也成為酒莊的旗艦酒款。 1961年,Giovanni又更進一步購入同產區的Asili葡萄園。

1971年,Giovanni的兒子Alfredo Roagna正式參與酒莊的釀酒工作。在Alfredo的經營下,酒莊葡萄園的範圍擴展到了Barolo產區,他與妻子買下位於Castiglione Falletto村的Pira葡萄園,這塊園地佔地7公頃,是Roagna家族擁有的面積最大的葡萄園,隨後酒莊使用該葡萄園所產葡萄開始釀造Barolo葡萄酒。

 

Pajé和Pira好比勃根地的Chambolle-Musigny和Gevrey-Chambertin,前者優雅精緻、層次細膩,後者結構緊實、力量十足。

 

Pajé位於Barbaresco村的中心,擁有近乎完美的風土:向陽的半圓形劇場地形,230米的適中海拔,土壤以石灰質泥灰岩為主。坡頂處的地塊石灰岩的比例尤其高,這塊區域被專門劃分出來,釀造酒莊最稀有神秘的酒款——Crichet Pajé。權威機構研究顯示,基岩中碳酸鈣(石灰岩的主要成分)含量越高,葡萄酒的結構感越強、陳年能力越出色,所以將Crichet Pajé視為BarbarescoMusigny似乎也非常恰當。

Pira獨占園是Roagna酒莊最大的地塊,共11公頃,其中7公頃為葡萄園,4公頃為森林;Luca Roagna主張的“萬物共生”種植理念在這裡得到了最完滿的呈現,用種子培育苗木和壓條繁殖的實驗都是在這裡開展的。該葡萄園面向東南,有一部分種植於1937年;其土壤為Castiglione Falletto村特有的“Diano Sandstone”——表層土和基岩中沙土、砂岩比例較高,同時摻雜著泥灰岩和石灰岩。沙土以孕育迷人的香氣聞名,Pira出產的葡萄酒(尤其是老藤酒款)將芳香與張力巧妙融合,精雕細琢,呈現出Barolo的平衡之美。

2001年,Alfredo的兒子Luca Roagna也開始加入酒莊的釀造工作,他是家族第五代釀酒人,目前他與父親共同打理著Roagna酒莊。

Roagna酒莊的酒款眾多,但每款酒的產量卻有限,平均水準之高讓人驚訝。在酒評上,往往獲得專家高分好評。例如Roagna Barbaresco Crichët Pajé獲得的評分多半在95分以上;釀造這款酒的葡萄藤皆為60歲以上老藤,經歷長時間的大橡木桶陳年,從葡萄收穫到上市期間約需10年,產量甚微,多則兩千餘瓶,少則低於千瓶,每一瓶上頭皆會編號。

 

 

 

微薰精選現貨

2016 Roagna Langhe Rosso 750ml  $2,100

VM89, WS91

100%Nebbiolo,由Pajé和Barolo的Pira葡萄園混釀,藤齡20-25年 

 

2015 Roagna Barbaresco Pajè 750ml  $4,600

VM94

由藤齡25-50年的葡萄釀成

The 2015 Barbaresco Pajè is the most nuanced and complete of the four wines in this lower tier of vineyard designates. Deceptively light in body, the 2015 possesses striking complexity and dimensions. Breadth and power are implied more than overtly stated. Clean, minerally notes punctuate the finish. The Pajè packs a serious punch. It will be even better in another few years' time. This is just classic Roagna and the wine in this range that offers the best value. I loved it.  ~ Antonio Galloni, Vinous

 

2016 Roagna Barbaresco Vecchie Viti Pajè 750ml   $13,000

VM96, WE97

老藤,平均藤齡60-65年

The 2016 Barbaresco Pajè Vecchie Viti is an exotic, totally beguiling wine laced with super-classic Nebbiolo notes of rose petal, orange peel, cinnamon and macerated cherry. Aromatic, sensual and constantly changing in the glass, the Pajè Vecchie Viti is everything Nebbiolo and Barbaresco are supposed to be. The complexity here is just unreal. ~ Antonio Galloni, Vinous

 

 

2015 Roagna Barolo Pira 750ml   $4,800

VM93

The 2015 Barolo Pira is lifted and gracious in feel. In this vintage, the Pira is notably perfumed and restrained. Rose petal, mint, crushed flowers, dried cherry, star anise and cinnamon are some of the many notes that grace this delicate, lilting Barolo from Luca Roagna. The tannins are persistent and fine, lending a slightly nervous feel. Antonio Galloni, Vinous

 

2006 Roagna Barolo Pira Riserva 750ml   $30,800

VM96, WA96, WS98

The 2006 Barolo Pira Riserva Black Label is a tiny selection of about 2,400 bottles that spent five years in cask and then a decade in cement. Dense, exotic and beautifully layered, the Riserva captures that sense of timelessness that is often a signature of the Roagna wines - a place in time in which wines are both aged and young at the same time. It's that co-existence in two different worlds that defines many of the best wines here. Spice, orange zest, chocolate, spice, star anise and sweet pipe tobacco lend nuance to a wine that is just entering its first plateau of maturity. Antonio Galloni, Vinous

 


©以上資料整理參考自SCH Lifestyle, 母儀酒業及各大酒評家官網 

 

 

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