2017 Weingut Keller Feuervogel Silvaner Trocken 750ml

VM92

At eight grams per liter of acidity, this is another of those vintage 2017 Silvaners that display unusual brightness, animation and sheer refreshment. On the nose, there is not just a predictable note of ripe pear, but also surprising suggestions of lime and crab apple that translate into tangy, tart-edged invigoration on a polished, buoyant palate. Chalky aromatic intimations anticipate a subsequent tactile sense of crushed stone suffusion. Fruit seed, crushed black pepper and sea salt add piquant, incisive, mouthwatering stimulation to the superbly sustained, almost severely intense finish. I can’t recall having tasted another Silvaner that at all closely resembled this one. It should age magnificently. (2019-2028)

~David Schildknecht, Vinous