2014 Weingut Keller Abts E® Riesling Großes Gewächs 750ml

VM96

Marine-breeze alkaline and saline notes, black tea smokiness and a hints of framboise distillate penetrate the nostrils, and the mineral complexity that follows on the polished, expansive (even at 12.8% alcohol), remarkably buoyant palate does not disappoint the expectations aroused by the nose. At the same time, there is an infectious abundance of white peach, grapefruit and red raspberry juiciness on tap, invigoratingly accented by piquant but never outright bitter pits and pips along with tart, seed-crunching impingement. A finish of vibratory intensity and consummate refreshment left me exhilarated and panting after the next fascinating, sensuously satisfying sip. Keller calls this the butterfly among his Grosse Gewächse and attributes the jump in quality that it typically represents in tasting that line-up to the stony purity and rapid drainage of the site’s limestone soils. There’s something approaching magic here, that’s for sure! (Drink between 2017-2034)

~David Schildknecht, 96 points